A New Addiction!

Hello, my friends! I have been a little under the weather lately, so things have slowed down a bit. I should say, I have slowed down a little. I've kept the crochet hook going, but haven't been able to follow a written pattern very well for some reason. So I've been 'free-forming' a little, and indulging in my latest addiction.

A teacup pincushion, made with my free Mother's Day Teacup pattern using size 10 thread and a size 5 hook. I made tiny crocheted flowers with size 20 thread and a size 10 hook to attach to the side of the teacup with a gold bead for the flower centers. I do not sew very well, as you can tell from my lumpy pincushion center!  

 A Daisy pincushion, again with size 10 thread and a size 5 hook. Tiny Flutter~By's from Todolwen's lovely pattern.

 Popping Flowers Square Pincushion.

 Then I was digging through 'My Big Box of Craft Supplies That I Haven't Figured Out a Use For', and came across a couple of pairs of tiny doll shoes. That's when I knew I was addicted, I looked at one and thought, "You know, that might make a cute pincushion!" The first one here was made with pink embroidery floss, from that same box, and size 10 crochet thread, also with my favorite size 5 hook. See how itty-bitty it is?

 Nestled in my confederate jasmine, which is in bloom right now, and smells heavenly.

 I wanted to use the other shoe, too, so made one in blue size 10 crochet thread, natural size 20 crochet thread for the lace trim, and Little Crocheted Flowers, also from Todolwen. I love her patterns! If you get a chance to browse her blog, please do so. I promise you won't be disappointed as she has created a wonderful site on the internet. I never fail to be inspired to create something myself after visiting Toldolwen old to new.

Believe it or not, I am working on a second pair of doll shoes now, this time with a ribbon tie. Yes, My name is Marjorie, and I am addicted to making pincushions!

Tea, Anyone?

Mother's Day is rapidly approaching, and I have been wracking my brain over what to give my Mom. I was cleaning my nick-knacks in the kitchen yesterday, and took down the tea set I inherited from my grandmother. The light bulb went off!

Here is the gift I made for my lovely Mom, and in celebration of Mother's Day, a gift for you, too, the Mother's Day Teacup pattern.

p.s. Pat, please don't tell mom, okay? I'd like it to be a surprise!

   Usual disclaimer: This pattern has not been tested, comments, concerns, complaints are all welcome!

Mother's Day Tea Cup

Materials Needed:

Size 10 crochet thread in three colors;
MC = main color, I choose white.
C2 = second color of choice, I chose a rosy pink
C3 = third color of choice, I chose a soft green.

Size 5 (1.90mm) crochet hook

Needle to weave ends in and to sew the handle onto the cup.

Something to stiffen your cup and saucer, either a commercial fabric stiffener (I used Plaid's Stiffy), or a sugar solution. I have never used sugar to stiffen any of my crochet projects, so I'm afraid I can't share any recipes with you for this process.

Something to form your teacup and saucer on while it dries. I used an espresso cup saucer for my saucer, and a plastic Easter egg with a medicine bottle cap taped to the bottom to form my teacup. Plastic wrap to cover your forms and protect them from the stiffening agent.

Note: Gauge is not important in this pattern.

My tip: Read the entire pattern before you begin to crochet so that you are aware of any special stitches that you are not familiar with, and where they occur.

Abbreviations used:

sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
sk = skip
ea = each
sp = space
sc inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dc inc = increase (do 2 double crochets in one stitch)
Beg shell = Chain 3, double crochet, chain 1, 2 double crochet in the same stitch
shell = 2 double crochets, chain 1, 2 double crochets in the same stitch
V st = double crochet, ch 1, double crochet in the same stitch
FO = fasten off

Notes:
 Do not turn at the end of any of the rounds. 
The side facing you as you crochet is the right side.
Join all rounds with a slip stitch.
If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.

Tea Cup

With MC:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: * sc inc in next st* repeat from * to ** around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, sc inc in second st** repeat from * to ** around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first  2 st, sc inc in third st** repeat from * to ** around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 3 st, sc inc in fourth st** repeat from * to ** around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 4 st, sc inc in fifth st** repeat from * to ** around. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Dc in ea st around. (36 dc)
Rnd 8: Beg shell, sk 2 st, *shell in next st, sk 2 st,** repeat from * to ** around, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch 3. (12 shells)
Rnd 9: ss to first ch 1 space, beg shell,  sk 2 st, *shell in next ch 1 sp, sk 4 st,** repeat from * to ** around, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch 3. (12 shells)
Rnds 10 and 11: repeat Rnd 9. FO MC
Rnd 12: Join C2 with ss in ch 1 sp of any shell, repeat Rnd 9. FO
Rnd 13: Attach C3 with a ss in ch 1 sp of any shell, ch one, sc, *ch 3, dc in 3rd chain from the hook, sc in next ch 1 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, joining with a ss in beginning sc. (12 bobble st.)
FO

Handle

With MC:
Chain 4, dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, 2 dc in same st. Turn
Rnd 2: ss into ch 1 space, ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2 dc Turn
Repeat last row 7 times
FO and attach one end to the top of Rnd 7 and the other end to the top of Rnd 12.

Weave in all ends if you have not done so already.

Saucer

With MC:
Rnd 1: 12 dc in a magic ring (12 dc)
Rnd 2: dc inc in ea st around. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: *dc in first 3 st, dc inc in next**, repeat from * to ** around. (30 dc)
Rnd 4: *1 dc, ch1 in first 4 st, V st, ch 1 in fifth st*, repeat from * to ** around. (36 dc, 36 ch 1 sps)
Rnd 5: dc, ch 1 in ea dc st around (sk the ch 1 sp of rnd 4). (36 dc, 36 ch 1 sps)
Rnd 6:  ss to first ch 1 space, beg  shell,  sk 2 dc st, *shell in next ch 1 sp, sk 2 dc st,** repeat from * to ** around, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of begining ch 3. (18 shells)
Rnd 7: ss to first ch 1 sp, beg shell, ch 1, *shell in next ch 1 sp, ch 1**, repeat from * to ** around. (18 shells)
FO
Rnd 8: Join C2 with a ss to ch 1 sp of any shell, beg shell, ch 1,  *shell in next ch 1 sp, ch 1**, repeat from * to ** around. (18 shells)
FO
Rnd 9: Attach C3 with a ss in ch 1 sp of any shell, ch one, sc, *ch 3, dc in 3rd chain from the hook, sc in next ch 1 sp**, repeat from * to ** around, joining with a ss in begining sc.

If you have not done so already, weave in all ends.

Side note: If you are not comfortable working with thread and a small hook, this pattern can also be made with ww yarn. I tried it with Peaches & Creme, and a H hook (5mm). Pictured below is the result of that, next to my prototype teacup for size comparison. I like it, and plan on finishing the set to use as a planted pot holder! Thanks to Mama Faye for the idea!

Baby Snow Monkey - Free Crochet Pattern

Baby Snow Monkey

This pattern has not been tested.
 

Materials needed:
ww or 4 ply yarn in two colors, one for the body, and one for the face. (I used Bernat Softee Chunky natural for the body, and Caron Simply Soft in tan for the photographed example.
Size F crochet hook
snap post eyes and nose or buttons or beads. (For young children, I would recommend embroidering the face details on.)
stuffing material
darning or tapestry needle for sewing the parts together

Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)

NOTE: As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your rounds.


Head:

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: * 2 sc (inc) in next st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first  2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6 - 8: work even, no inc or dec (30 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 3 st, sc2tog (dec) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 10: *1 sc in first 2 st, sc2tog (dec) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 11: *1 sc in first st, sc2tog (dec) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
ss in the next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Face:

Using face color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: * 2 sc (inc) in next st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first  2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (30 sc)
ss in the next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing


Ears: (make 2)

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. This is the exception to working in spirals. At the end of this round, chain one, and turn
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Body

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: * 2 sc (inc) in next st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4-8:  work even, no inc or dec (18 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first st, sc2tog (dec) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
ss in the next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing


Arms: (make 2)

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2 - 9: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Legs: (make 2)

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2 - 7: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Tail:

Using body color yarn:
Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2 - 9: sc in each st around (4 sc)
ss in the next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing


Assembly directions:

It's easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're balanced and in the correct position.

Sew face to head. Sew ears in place on head. Attach eyes and nose. Stuff head, and set aside.

Stuff legs, and sew into place on body. Position tail and sew into place on body. Stuff ONLY the ends of the arms (the hand part) and sew onto body.  Stuff body.

Sew head onto body. Decide where you want your baby's hand placed. I decided mine looked brand new and innocent, so I decided to make him sucking on his 'thumb'. (By not stuffing the majority of the arm, it makes it extremely pose-able.) I sewed his one hand to his face, and the other to his other foot. This is your choice.

A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here.

If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.

Stitching Away Here

It's been a roller coaster of a week, folks! But for every low, there's been a equal, if not greater than, high. I was blessed with two wonderful testers for my Amiga Penguin pattern. Thank you, Kathy B and MsBhaven!

Here is Kathy B's rendition:

Isn't it darling?

And MsBhaven's take:

And if that wasn't lovely enough, MsBhaven, who is an amigurumi fan herself, was inspired by the Amiga Penguin pattern to make Angry Birds! Take a look at these beauty's and read what she has to say about them:

"ok so Marjoriecrochets penguin pattern inspired me I kept seeing angry birds when I was testing her pattern this is Marjorie's pattern all the way the difference is I dropped the last row of the beak on her pattern and I made only one wing and dropped the last row of it as well and made it the tail. I did not adjust the body at all."

~MsBhaven

I'm working away at some new patterns. One that I've focused on this week is my Abagayle Purse. I originally wrote this wa-a-a-y back in 2008, but put it away and didn't do anything with it until now. I'm experiencing a temporary yarn shortage at the moment, so in order to transcribe my funny short hand into standard crochet terms, I had to use size 10 thread to test my directions.

Here's the original bag:

 

And my size 10 test sample:

 (See how tiny it is in size 10 thread?)

What do you think? Would you crochet something like this? I'll be posting the free pattern in a day or two.

Happy crocheting!

Amiga Penguin

*This pattern has been tested, thanks to the lovely Kathy B from CrochetTalk forum. Comments, concerns, and suggestions are all welcome.*

Amiga Penguin

Materials needed:

small amount of 4 ply (ww) yarn, black for body and wings, white for the body panel, orange for the beak, and and reddish for the feet feet (I used Yarn Bee's Cameo black for the body and wings referred to in pattern as main color, Yarn Bee's Cameo ivory for the body panel, Caron Simply Soft mango for the beak and a scrap of reddish color Caron Simply Soft for the feet)

"G" hook

"F" hook

stitch markers

Darning needle

2 post eyes (I used the snap on post and back type eyes, don't know what they're typically called.)

fiberfill for stuffing

Abbreviations used:

sc = single crochet

st = stitch

ss = slip stitch

inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)

dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)

Body: (make one)

As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your rounds.

With "G" hook, and main color:

Start 8 sc in a magic ring. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around.  (16 sc)

Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around.  (20 sc)

Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in fifth st* repeat from * to * around.  (24 sc)

Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in sixth st* repeat from * to * around.  (28 sc)

Rnd 7: *1 sc in first 6 st, 2 sc (inc) in seventh st* repeat from * to * around.  (32 sc)

Rnd 8: *1 sc in first 7 st, 2 sc (inc) in eighth st* repeat from * to * around.  (36 sc)

Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 8 st, 2 sc (inc) in nineth st* repeat from * to * around.  (40 sc)

Rnds 10 - 12: work even (40 sc)

Rnd 13: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around ( 32 sc)

Rnd 14: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around ( 24 sc)

Rnd 15: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around ( 16 sc)

Rnd 16: *sc first 2 st together (dec)* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

Wings: (make two)

With "G" hook, and main color:

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (9 sc)

Rnd 3 - 5: Work even around (9 sc)

Rnd 6: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around ( 6 sc) ss into next st, and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing and weaving.

Beak: (make 1)

With "F" hook, and orange yarn:

Make 4 sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 6 sc)

Rnd 3: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 8 sc)

Rnd 4: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 10 sc)

Rnd 5: Work even (10 sc) ss into next st and fasten off, leaving long tail for weaving and sewing. 

Feet: (make 2)

With "F" hook, and 'feet' color yarn:

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (9 sc)

Rnd 3 - 5: Work even around (9 sc)

Rnd 6: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around ( 6 sc) ss into next st, and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing and weaving.

Body Panel:

Using white yarn and "G" hook:

(This is the lone exception to the 'amigurumi spiral'. *you could also make a body panel from white felt, and sew it into place)

Ch 3, turn

Rnd 1: sc in second st from hook and each st across (2 sc) ch 1 and turn

Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st (inc) and 2 sc in second st(inc) ch 1 and turn (4 sc)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first st (inc) sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in last st(inc) (6 sc) ch 1 and turn

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first st (inc) sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in last st(inc) (8 sc) ch 1 and turn

Rnd 5: ss in first st, sc in the next 5 st, sc2tog (6sc) ch 1 and turn

Rnd 6: ss in first st, sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog twice (4sc) ch 1 and turn

Rnd 7: sc2 tog in each st across (2 sc) fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing

Assembly Instructions:

I find it easiest to sew the beak and the body panel onto the body before stuffing it and sewing it closed. Refering to photo, sew beak  and body panel in place. Attach the eye posts.

Stuff the body, and weave the lang tail through the last row of stitches, pull tight to close, and sew the tail to secure. Bury thread through the center of the body.

Sew the wings onto each side of the body. Stuff the feet, and sew to bottom of the penguin

Make a small tassel using the black yarn, and sew into place on the top of the penguins head.

Notes:

It's also easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're balanced and in the correct position.

A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here:

http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.

Lost Pattern Found!

Trying to get back into writing crochet patterns again, I came across this pattern that I thought had long been lost! Oh happy day!

Baby Snowy Owlet

Materials needed:

small amount of 4 ply (ww) yarn, for body, eyes, wings and wing trim, and feet (I used Yarn Bee's Cameo ivory for the body and wings referred to in pattern as main color, Yarn Bee's Cameo black for the eye rings, Caron Simply Soft Shadows pearl frost for wing trim, and Caron Simply Soft mango for the feet)

size 3 crochet thread for beak (I used Senso Metallics black)

"G" hook

"C" hook

stitch markers

Darning needle

2 post eyes (I used the snap on post and back type eyes, don't know what they're typically called.)

fiberfill for stuffing

Abbreviations used:

sc = single crochet

st = stitch

ss = slip stitch

inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)

dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)

Body: (make one)

As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your rounds.

With "G" hook, and main color:

Start 8 sc in a magic ring. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around.  (16 sc)

Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around.  (20 sc)

Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in fifth st* repeat from * to * around.  (24 sc)

Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in sixth st* repeat from * to * around.  (28 sc)

Rnd 7: *1 sc in first 6 st, 2 sc (inc) in seventh st* repeat from * to * around.  (32 sc)

Rnd 8: *1 sc in first 7 st, 2 sc (inc) in eighth st* repeat from * to * around.  (36 sc)

Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 8 st, 2 sc (inc) in nineth st* repeat from * to * around.  (40 sc)

Rnds 10 - 12: work even (40 sc)

Rnd 13: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around ( 32 sc)

Rnd 14: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around ( 24 sc)

Rnd 15: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around ( 16 sc)

Rnd 16: *sc first 2 st together (dec)* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

Wings: (make two)

With "G" hook, and main color:

Work 8 sc in a magic ring (8 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (16 sc)

Rnd 3: * 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in next (inc)* repeat from * to * around (24 sc)

Rnd 4: work even (24 sc) ss into next st, and fasten off

Rnd 5: attach new color in any st and work even around (24 sc) ss in next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Fold wing circle in half and sew edges together. Do not cut yarn, you'll use the remainder to sew the wing onto the body of the owlet.

Eye Rings: (make 2)

With "G" hook, and eye color:

Make 6 sc in a magic ring, join with a ss and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing eye rings to body.

Beak: (make 1)

With "C" hook, and size 3 hook:

Make 4 sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 6 sc)

Rnd 3: *sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 8 sc)

Rnd 4: *sc in first 3 st, 2 sc in next st (inc)* repeat from * to * around. ( 10 sc)

Rnd 5: Work even (10 sc) ss into next st and fasten off, leaving long tail for weaving and sewing.  Weave yarn through the last row of stitches and pull to close. Flatten slightly to form beak shape.

Feet: (make 2)

With "C" hook, and 'feet' color yarn:

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (9 sc)

Rnd 3 - 4: Work even around (10 sc)

Rnd 5: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around ( 6 sc) ss into next st, and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing and weaving.

Assembly Instructions:

I find it easiest to sew the beaks and eye rings onto the body before stuffing it and sewing it closed. Referring to photo, sew beak in place, then eye rings. Attach the eye posts in the centers of the eye rings.

Stuff the body, and weave the long tail through the last row of stitches, pull tight to close, and sew the tail to secure. Bury thread through the center of the body.

Sew the wings onto each side of the body. Fold feet flat, and sew to bottom of the owlet (I placed them at the 3 row from the bottom.

Notes:

It's also easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're balanced and in the correct position.

A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here:

http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.